Mumbai Magic

Every time I travel to Mumbai, I like it a little more than the previous visit. I remember the disappointment I felt the first time I was there, perhaps because I was expecting too much from this famous city. I was shocked at the small and narrow roads, the slums and filth smack next to 5-star hotels, designer shops and posh dwellings, the huge number of stray dogs and cats roaming around and the distinct smell that each area seemed to have, such that an area can easily be identified with eyes closed just by using the sense of smell.

But at the same time I was also very impressed with the sheer pace of the city and the people walking it, with women driving scooters, the number of posh malls and branded shops crowded with people of the middle and upper classes, the well-behaved crowds at cinemas, and very creative advertisements everywhere - on billboards, double deckers, bus-stands. A pleasant thing to strike me was that men did not ogle at women as they do in Karachi, even though women in Mumbai generally wear trousers and skirts compared to shalwar kameez and dupatta back home.

I also travelled the local train from Churchgate to Andheri in rush hour after work, and that too in the general compartment despite the warnings of all my local friends against trying something 'so drastic' - that was a unique experience, and had it not been for my friend who held me very tightly I would surely have fallen off the train considering perhaps more than 100 people both got off and on the train in a span of less than 15 seconds at Andheri station. During the journey it was actually very difficult to breathe in the compartment as men and women were squashed against each other and the stench of perspiration was nauseating. Thankfully I had a seat right next to the window and had my nose glued to the gauze for fresh air.

The old and rusty black & yellow taxis are a trademark of the city, and the fact that these are to be replaced in some time is a big shame. The double-deckers also seem to be from colonial times, though I'm not sure if these are on the list of 'to-go' items. The taxi drivers were always helpful, and one even insisted to show me Shahrukh Khan's house from outside in Bandra even though I wasn't interested. The tourist highlihts were Gateway of India and the Taj across, and the walk along Colaba market with a few old cafes on the way for a nice cup of tea.

Pani-puri at Chaupati and the spicy and yummy vadapau available at almost any corner are the main local culinary highlights for me, as I think even the Mumbites would agree with me if I say Karachi food is much more delicious and superior in taste and quality overall.

The hotels are simple excellent, especially the Oberoi at Nariman Point with its magnificent view of the sea. At any given point in time this view of Marine Drive is worth watching, as in the morning one can see many early morning joggers or people walking their dogs, and in the evenings it seems to be a meeting point for couples after work. Just watching them gives a glimpse into what makes this the city that moves India.

A friend of mine was right when she said Mumbai would grow on me, for after five visits it I think it finally has. I'm already again looking forward to my next visit.