Mumbai Terror

My travel jinx is common knowledge to most friends, but I could never have been prepared enough for the horrific episode on Nov27 in Mumbai. I was there to attend a few board meetings, followed by a quiet management day out on 27th. The horror began just about the time we were coming out of a management dinner Wednesday night at the Four Seasons, where I was staying this time thanks to good rates agreed between this newly opened hotel and the Company.

Lynn, our HR Manager for South Asia, was expecting her husband to pick her up, and we were chatting in the lobby while waiting for him. When he hadn't arrived by 11pm, she called him only to find out he was held up on the way because of a reported bomb blast in the city. Worried, we hurried up to my room to check the news which was reporting exchange of fire between Nigerians and the police at the famous Leopold Cafe some kilometers away. There was also news of a blast having been heard, however there was uncertainty about where. Within the next hour the the number of blasts had become three, number of casualties about 10 or so and armed attacks on two top hotels, Oberoi and Taj. Lynn's husband managed to arrive some time after midnight, and we agreed to stay in touch over the developing situation.

I called up my worried folks back home to let them know I was okay, and followed the news till around 2am by when there were already 25 or so deaths reported, 5 bombs and a hostage drama unfolding in the two hotels. Worried and feeling helpless, I fell asleep. At 8am on Nov27, I woke up in a fear-gripped and paralysed Mumbai to the news of over 100 people dead, scores more injured and continuing hostage crisis. Lynn called to say the management outing was obviously off, our Mumbai offices had been declared closed and that we were to stay indoors till further notice. Being a Pakistani in India, and aware of the history of traditional finger-pointing between the two countries, I decided to check on flights and get the first available one back to Karachi. The hotel staff were all very helpful, and with Lynn calling every quarter of an hour to check on progress, I managed to get to the airport, arrange a ticket and head back safely in the afternoon. In the absence of traffic it was probably also the quickest ever trip between the hotel and the airport.

Sure enough, the blame-game with Pakistan has now begun. This whole incident and the situation developing is a terrible thing to happen, especially at a time when relations between the two countries were at a high. The way the media on both sides is behaving, it seems that regardless of how much we work together to build a good relationship, it is all really just a farce - scratch the surface and just underneath there is so much ill-will, distrust and resentment on both sides, built up in all our years of animosity and war, that no amount of effort can really seem to wash it away.

We need to wake up to the fact that terrorism is not only a global problem, for Pakistan it is our single biggest national problem. We know the fear Mumbaikars are facing, because we live through it every day. And those who know this fear would never will it on anyone else. Pakistan has its hands full in dealing with this threat internally to think about unleashing it elsewhere. Instead of talking of troop buildups at the border we need to collectively put our best brains together to solve this issue.
I hope and pray that sanity prevails.

Winds of Change

I felt it this morning, the dry air and scorching heat. It was as if there was a huge fire raging not far away, eating away all forms of life. Autumn is finally here. The temperature today was no less than 45C and one could potentially fry an egg on a car bonnett outside. I love it. And as crazy as it may sound, I love being outdoors in this dry weather when people would much rather stay put in their homes with the air conditioning on full blast.

People associate Spring as the start of life and love and happiness, but somehow for me even September has a powerful effect. For if it were not for the falling of leaves and the destructive forces of Autumn, there would never come the new life associated with Spring. A sense of quiet urgency grips me, the feeling that I must also act quickly to change my state and surroundings the way Mother Nature is doing all around.

In a way I always find myself falling in love in September. Be it with a person or a new idea, with the beautiful earth and with humankind in general. Somehow it is always Autumn when the realization hits hardest - that life is simply beautiful.

Traveling...again

I've been in Colombo for almost a week now, traveling for business. There’s tight security all over the city, random checks and police everywhere - one has to cross no less than three check-posts to get to the hotel I'm staying at, near the Presidential palace. Bombs go off in this city often, and while previously only government or military areas were targeted, recent attacks have been on civilians, in the markets or in buses and trains. YET what's baffling is that when given the choice between Colombo and Karachi for this meeting, Karachi was almost immediately written off as a security threat. I mean, honestly, when was the last time a bomb went off in Karachi market? There has been a civil war going on in the outskirts of Colombo for as far back as I can remember. In Pakistan the unrest has always been thousands of miles away from Karachi, and only recently in Islamabad/Pindi. Yet the general perception is that the entire Pakistan is totally unsafe and unfit for travel. Hmph! I mean, hmph!
That was my rant as a patriotic Pakistani.

Getting into my tourist mode, I'm actually very impressed with Colombo. The streets are clean and spotless, people are helpful, and everyone seems to be well educated here, Even the rickshaw drivers and thelay-walas speak good English. Despite all the security stops, one actually feels comfortable around these police officials (a lot of them are women). They are smartly dressed, speak very politely with everyone, show courtesy and even smile at you. When was the last time a police officer in Karachi did any of that?
Crap yar, whenever I travel in South Asia, I feel so totally bad about the state of affairs back home. I’m beginning to complain all over again, so think I’ll just shut up and go shopping.

Going truly mobile, without moving an inch

Technology. The world on my fingertips.

Here I am, lying sick in bed with a sore throat and viral infection, and therefore bored out of my mind. I reach out to my blackberry and start browsing; checking my mails, reading the newspaper online, viewing friends' latest facebook updates. Haven't had the time to blog for a while, so I go to blogger.com and realize with a pleasant surprise that with a few changes in settings I can actually update my blog via mobile as well. Hmm, let's see if this works.

What will they think of next?
*** This Message Has Been Sent Using BlackBerry Internet Service from Mobilink ***

Break Time

I've been taking a break. From the 'rat race' as they say. Woke up one day and decided I had to get out and take a breather. So here I am, in London. This place has some fantastic associations and memories. I've been coming here almost every summer while growing up, so it feels like home away from home. This is the first city I got to travel alone to, had my first McDonalds experience in, where I read my first Ludlum novel, watched a Bollywood film in a cinema first time, saw my first adult-rated movie and also first place I got expatriated to and tasted the true flavor of independent life.

Walking around Trafalgar, boating in Hyde Park, tea at Covent Garden, watching the punks at Camden town, shopping on Oxford street, I simply love this place in summer time. Driving to the outskirts and exploring Bath, Cambridge, Windsor, there's no better way to take a break. And the experience begins even before one steps off the plane, for the view of the city during landing is simply breath-taking, with rows of English houses with their red bricks and black chimneys lined up like Lego-land, surrounded by vast, lush greenery and the river Thames winding across the city like a snake. Add a few old bridges here and a castle or two there, and you're stepping into dreamworld.

I've been living in this dream for a week now, and another one to go before it's time to wake up and face the big bad world again.

Mumbai Magic

Every time I travel to Mumbai, I like it a little more than the previous visit. I remember the disappointment I felt the first time I was there, perhaps because I was expecting too much from this famous city. I was shocked at the small and narrow roads, the slums and filth smack next to 5-star hotels, designer shops and posh dwellings, the huge number of stray dogs and cats roaming around and the distinct smell that each area seemed to have, such that an area can easily be identified with eyes closed just by using the sense of smell.

But at the same time I was also very impressed with the sheer pace of the city and the people walking it, with women driving scooters, the number of posh malls and branded shops crowded with people of the middle and upper classes, the well-behaved crowds at cinemas, and very creative advertisements everywhere - on billboards, double deckers, bus-stands. A pleasant thing to strike me was that men did not ogle at women as they do in Karachi, even though women in Mumbai generally wear trousers and skirts compared to shalwar kameez and dupatta back home.

I also travelled the local train from Churchgate to Andheri in rush hour after work, and that too in the general compartment despite the warnings of all my local friends against trying something 'so drastic' - that was a unique experience, and had it not been for my friend who held me very tightly I would surely have fallen off the train considering perhaps more than 100 people both got off and on the train in a span of less than 15 seconds at Andheri station. During the journey it was actually very difficult to breathe in the compartment as men and women were squashed against each other and the stench of perspiration was nauseating. Thankfully I had a seat right next to the window and had my nose glued to the gauze for fresh air.

The old and rusty black & yellow taxis are a trademark of the city, and the fact that these are to be replaced in some time is a big shame. The double-deckers also seem to be from colonial times, though I'm not sure if these are on the list of 'to-go' items. The taxi drivers were always helpful, and one even insisted to show me Shahrukh Khan's house from outside in Bandra even though I wasn't interested. The tourist highlihts were Gateway of India and the Taj across, and the walk along Colaba market with a few old cafes on the way for a nice cup of tea.

Pani-puri at Chaupati and the spicy and yummy vadapau available at almost any corner are the main local culinary highlights for me, as I think even the Mumbites would agree with me if I say Karachi food is much more delicious and superior in taste and quality overall.

The hotels are simple excellent, especially the Oberoi at Nariman Point with its magnificent view of the sea. At any given point in time this view of Marine Drive is worth watching, as in the morning one can see many early morning joggers or people walking their dogs, and in the evenings it seems to be a meeting point for couples after work. Just watching them gives a glimpse into what makes this the city that moves India.

A friend of mine was right when she said Mumbai would grow on me, for after five visits it I think it finally has. I'm already again looking forward to my next visit.

Capitalizing on Congestion

Yesterday I went to the Lakson building (across the Press Club) in Saddar with two colleagues to meet an estate agent for some office-related work. The area being quite a busy place, finding parking space was a huge hassle. While I was circling and searching for space, the agent we were supposed to meet signalled for us to turn and drive into the premises of the Sindh Wildlife building nearby. I acquiesced and went in and parked.

When I asked if it was okay to park there for a little while I was told that the building ground is de facto used as regular parking space by individuals upon payment of Rs 1500-2000 per month to the chowkidar, or Rs20 per parking per trip for visitors. I think there must be about 15-20 or more cars parked in the premises at any point in time, which means the chowkidar (and the few others who have to be in it together) easily make at the very least Rs40,ooo per month in this business with zero investment (or tax).

The story is the same in all the other government office premises in the area.
We are such an enterprising people :)

Karachi Burns Again

Here we go again. Just when Karachi seemed to have recovered from the post Dec27 mayhem and its citizens beginning to look a little optimistic for peace after Zardari’s historic reconciliatory visit to Nine-Zero, violence has erupted again. So far 50 cars have been burnt, 7 people have lost their lives, scores of people are wounded and 5 burnt alive in acts of arson and sabotage across the city in a matter of hours.

It all supposedly started when a few MQM lawyers who were protesting the Niazi manhandling were allegedly attacked by other lawyers, resulting in a huge scuffle and consequent widespread protest, rioting and violence across the city.

It is interesting to note that Arbab Rahim has given a press conference in which he is accusing the PPP to be responsible for the rioting and violence in Karachi ‘considering the PPP is in power’. If being in power is the criteria for responsibility then by that token is Arbab admitting to his own government’s hand in the May12 violence in Karachi??

There are many theories being put forward by conspiracy lovers. Some say that power-sharing talks with the MQM have broken down which is why the party is resorting to showing its might and threatening street-power in Karachi. Others say it is an attempt by the Commando to malign and jeopardize the lawyers’ movement as a warning against restoring the judges. Yet others imply that this is the Commando’s attempt to head the country towards another Martial Law.

Whatever it may be, it is Karachiites who suffer – yet again.

Sunday Morning with Pushkin

Chanced upon this lovely translation of Pushkin by Katharena Eiermann. Enjoy:

Confession

I love you, though I rage at it,
Though it is shame and toil misguided,
And to my folly self-derided
Here at your feet I will admit!

It ill befits my years, my station,
Good sense has long been overdue!
And yet, by every indication
Love's plague has stricken me anew

You're out of sight - I fall to yawning;
You're here - I suffer and feel blue,
And barely keep myself from owning,
Dear elf, how much I care for you!

Why, when your guileless girlish chatter
Drifts from next door your airy tread,
Your rustling dress, my senses scatter
And I completely lose my head.

You smile -I flush with exultation;
You turn away - I'm plunged in gloom,
Your pallid hand is compensation
For a whole day of fancied doom

When to the frame with artless motion
You bend to cross-stitch, all devotion,
Your eyes and ringlets down-beguiled,
My heart goes out in mute emotion

Rejoicing in you like a child!
Dare I confess to you my sighing,
How jealously I chafe and balk
When you set forth, defying

Bad weather, on a lengthy walk?
And then your solitary crying,
Those twosome whispers out of sight,
Your carriage to Opochka plying

And the piano late at night -Aline!
I ask but to be pitied,
I do not dare to plead for love;
Love, for the sins I have committed,
I am perhaps unworthy of.

But make believe! Your gaze, dear elf,
Is fit to conjure with, believe me!
Ah, it is easy to deceive me...
I long to be deceived myself!

Fitna Launched

The controversial movie Fitna is now out and can be found on several websites and youtube links despite massive blocking attempts by the PTA. It is an almost 20-minute movie and attempts (to an extent successfully I think) to put terror of Islam and Muslims in the minds and hearts of all who watch it.

It starts out with a recitation of some verses (with references) in the Quran followed by images of 9/11 and other bombings and acts of terror carried out by fanatics in the name of Islam, in an attempt to link the verses with these acts. It goes on to show clips of hate speeches and anti-West/anti-Jewish rhetoric of some known and unknown clerics and imams across the world, including various parts of Netherlands and Europe and more videos/newsclips of actual deeds done by Islamist extremists which reflect support for this type of hate-thinking.

The movie clearly shows the various restrictive ideologies in practice and the dismal state and treatment of women, children, gays and non-muslims in Muslim countries, and points to the rising number of Muslim immigrants in Europe who are calling for curbing Western freedoms in the West and implementing these ideologies. If various imams in Europe's mosques actually do preach the kind of hate that the movie has shown them to do, then I am not surprised with the fear of Islamization that Wilders is attempting to create in his viewers.

Personally I find it an unacceptable idea that immigrants (from anywhere) come to a society in search of a better life and then forcefully try to impose their own drastically different ideologies on the adopted society expecting it to yield and submit instead of themselves adapting to the new society! Why choose to live in the West if Western norms are so not acceptable?

This problem is not just the West's. Pakistan is also a victim of exactly the same phenomenon. Thirty years ago Pakistani society was far more tolerant and free than it is today. It was the Afghan war and the consequent influx of Afghan refugees and the Taliban and their unacceptably intolerant ideology that has brought about the dismal state of affairs that Pakistan is in today, i.e., in the heart and frontline of the war on terror. It is sickening to know that the governments of the time and also successive ones did not do enough to stop the growing menace of religious fundamentalism and extremism in the country.

Coming back to the movie, I think it should be allowed a viewing because it gives an insight to the way Islam and Muslims are being perceived today by the West and the very reasons for this as well. We cannot put the onus on Western societies to understand and accomodate us if we are not willing to face our own internal issues and deal with these - no one (and especially no one in Pakistan) can deny that religious extremism is indeed a huge problem we need to deal with, and deal with as a top priority.

It is not simply freedoms of the west but the very survival of our own society that is at stake here. We all MUST say a huge, resounding NO to extremism.
It must begin at home.

Management Gem 2

From a management and organization development point of view, I believe there is one thing worse that than low performers: mediocre performers. Low performers are relatively easier to deal with, as an obvious or repeated low performance can be the basis for redundancy. But mediocre performers can be a dilemma -they are able to meet some of the targets and therefore get away with average ratings. Average performers who are and will always be average are like slow poison eating into the quality and soul of the company, never letting it grow from good to great.

I would say managers must keep a continuous eye out for mediocrity, and root it out as soon as possible replacing it with good talent thereby allowing both people and the company to develop and flourish.

Fitna

Dutch MP Geert Wilders, known for his anti-Islamic views, has chosen the word 'Fitna' as the new title for his 15-minute, explosive anti-Islamic film to be released in March. The word fitna is Arabic and occurs a number of times in the Quran, referring to spreading malice or having malicious intent.

According to Mr Wilders, “I insisted on using a phrase that’s also found in the Koran. Islam and the Koran are my ordeal. I use the term in an inverse sense… For me the poisonous Koran is fitna.”

The 15-minute movie will apparently contain an animated cartoon of the prophet Mohammed, and some Dutch media have suggested that the end will show Wilders burning a copy of the Quran.

Fearing an international backlash against the Netherlands, the Dutch government already has instructed its embassies worldwide on how to act after the movie has been released. Security at Dutch embassies is to be increased, while Wilders has been advised to go into hiding abroad after the movie is released. Wilders is already under constant security protection since 2004 because of threats to his life due to his very vocal criticism of Islam in the wake of the murder of Dutch film director Theo Van Gogh.

The debate between provocation and freedom of expression is a very interesting one and has been ongoing for quite some time now, but the question is where do we draw the line? There is a serious need for engaging in reflection and constructive dialogue over this. In the same context, what would we call this movie, freedom of speech or fitna?

Obama: Threat to Pakistan?

I've seen a lot of support for Obama in the press and media, and especially by so many Pakistanis living in the U.S. While I like him compared to Clinton (and any Republican) on a number of important issues, what is really bothering me is his stand in support of bombing targets inside Pakistan territory if Islamabad is not willing to cooperate.

He said on Tuesday, “I never said I would bomb Pakistan. What I said was that if we have actionable intelligence against (Osama) bin Laden or other key Al Qaeda officials and Pakistan is unwilling or unable to strike against them, we should."

Striking targets inside the territory of a sovereign country? Is that not arrogance? And yet Pakistanis abroad support Obama. Why?

Out'bursts'!

By now six nights have passed since the result of the elections were announced, yet there is no reprieve from the loud noise of Klashinkov and TT bursts that seem to be echoing all over Karachi till the wee hours of the morning. I had no idea ordinary people had so much weaponry and ammunition to use with such impunity in expressing their jubilation that there is a total disregard for public peace or safety.

How exactly are we different from our tribal neighbours?

Management Gem 1

One of the first things to frustrate me after taking on managing a team of people for the first time back in late 2005 was how difficult it was to be pleased with the work of other individuals. No matter what the task, I was simply never satisfied with the quality I expected. After a number of frustrating weeks I realized I was simply trying to create my clones here.

The key learning for me has been to realize that managing people is not about getting them to perform as good as you think you can, but as good as they can. It's been great fun managing since then and developing people by helping them to realize their own true potential.

Origins of the word 'Assassins'

I was reading an interesting letter in Dawn yesterday, commenting on Jawed Naqvi's article tracing back the origins of the word Assassins. Accurate or not, it nevertheless gives an interesting version:

A breakaway section of the Fatimids (the followers of Nizam, the 19th Ismaili Imam) was trying to establish a sovereign Ismaili state independent of Egypt. It was after Imam Nizar’s (487 AH - 490 AH) murder that Hassan B. Saba, a staunch adherent, did not accept sovereignty of his brother, Imam Mustaali, who succeeded as 20th head of the sect and escaped to Persia making Persian Ismailis autonomous of Fatimids.

B. Saba’s (1034 - 1124) endeavor was to establish Nizari Ismaili ascendancy in Persia. Saba created a sect from a bunch of die-hard Fedayeens he collected, who after inhaling intoxicant potion of Hashish were prepared to offer lives at the order of the master. These Fedayeens moved freely in adjacent territories targeting their adversaries at will. Their targets were generals and statesmen or any prominent persons who were considered opposing them in achieving their objective. The Nizari sect rose in Persia as a result and its influence extended up to Syria Nusayriyya Mountains where they held many hill forts.

These Fedayeens were eventually named by the Crusaders as Hashishins or Assassins and with this appellation they became part of modern lexicon.